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reviewed by Bernie Kilkelly, last updated Feb. 7, 2008
Waterzooi Belgian Bistro in Garden City, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, has the best Belgian beer selection on Long Island by far, and one of the best in the tri-state area. But you shouldn't come to Waterzooi just for the beer (although sometimes that is reason enough!) -- the Belgian food is also first-rate and is a perfect complement to the beer. With 22 beers on draft and 100 bottles, Waterzooi is the place to try unique Belgian beers you can't find anywhere else, or to just enjoy old reliables like Leffe, Hoegarden or Ommegang beers from Cooperstown.
Waterzooi opened in 1998 at the start of the Belgian beer craze in New York, following a trip to Belgium by Chris Werle and Jeff Picciulo, founders of the Croxley Ales beer bars in Franklin Square, Rockville Centre and Manhattan, and their friend, chef Ed Davis. Inspired by the beer culture and cuisine of Belgium, they created a menu focused on traditional Belgian dishes such as the namesake waterzooi (a creamy fish and chicken stew), carbonade flamande (beef stewed in Abbey de Leffe brown ale) and of course moules frites available in more than a dozen styles. To date Waterzooi claims to have sold more than 2.5 million pounds of mussels. One of the best deals around is to stop in at Happy Hour from 5-7 on Mondays through Fridays, when moules frites are served for free at the bar.
Chef and co-owner Davis prepares a Belgian beer dinner on Monday nights with three courses paired with three select Belgian beers, all for a modest $35. A recent dinner featured an appetizer of baked moules with blue cheese fondue paired with Hoegarden, an entree of herb roasted salmon paired with Hennepin, and dessert of vanilla creme brulee paired with Banana Frubee wheat beer. The bistro has a large, open dining room with stark, modern décor, but I like dining in the bar area at the rear of the restaurant, especially in the summer months when the large windows are open. Either way, Waterzooi is an oasis of Belgian beer culture in the heart of Nassau County and is a must stop for all Long Island beer enthusiasts.
Waterzooi Belgian Bistro
850 Franklin Avenue
Garden City, NY
(516) 877-2177
